The
Hokulea is a Polynesian voyaging canoe that was built in
Hawaii in 1976. By sailing from Hawaii to Tahiti in the early 1980s
she proved that the Polynesians were able to sail around the Pacific
Ocean by using only stars and other navigational clues, such as
waves, currents and birds. They do not even have a compass! In May
of 2014 the crew of the Hokulea and members of the Polynesian
Voyaging Society departed Hawaii on a round the world voyage of
“Malama Honua”, which means caring for “island Earth”, using
only those same navigational techniques. Quite a huge endeavor for
such a small open double hulled canoe. They would sail in both the
Northern and Southern Hemispheres, so they would have to learn ALL
the stars, of where they rise and where they set and have it
memorized.
Their
first stop was again Tahiti, then on to the other islands West of
here, North of Australia, through the Indian Ocean, round Cape of
Good Hope in Africa, up the Atlantic to NYC where they met with UN
representatives, then on through the Panama Canal and back into the
Pacific Ocean. On April 14, 2017 they successfully completed their
circumnavigation by again landing in Tahiti, and we were lucky enough
to be there!
There
had been a hum in Tahiti about their arrival. To circumnavigate with
out any of the currently available technology, like compass, GPS or
other electronic devices, is truly a huge accomplishment. It is hard
enough just sailing around with that equipment!! The village of
Mahina by Point Venus were their official hosts and they spent the
entire day before decorating the beach and shoreline. We sailed
Avatar up to the anchorage
the day before as well.
By
the next morning lots of people had arrived to welcome them.
Also
the newer Hawaiian canoe Hikianalia, who had come down from
Hawaii and the local Tahitian canoe Fa'atate sailed out to
meet the Hokulea to
congratulate her on completing the circle.
Hikianalia
is more modern and is fitted out with motors and satellite
communications, so she can maneuver under her own power.
Fa'atate's
crew were singing and playing
Ukuleles. Many of the crew members were women including the Captain!
The
Hokulea!
We
went out in our dinghy to join in the crowd and get some photos of
her with the sails up, even though there was no wind at all.
The
one guy raised his arm to say, “we did it!!”
This
is a good view of the steering oar, which is not easy to hold onto
when there is a big following sea rolling under the boat.
There
were several small sailing canoes out as the welcome committee as
well.
Check
out the laminated beams they use for holding the outriggers away from
the canoe.
The
boats slowly made their way to Tahiti and Point Venus.
This
is a double decker Polynesian outboard canoe all decorated up from
the Tahiti Yacht Club.
Even
this paddle boarder brought his dog out to greet them. (like I used
to do with Sophie)
At
the entrance to a small channel behind the reef, everyone paddled or
swam out to get to see these well respected Polynesians.
My
good friend, Jasna, was on shore and took this photo of us as we
approached the beach with the boats behind us.
One
at a time each canoe came up close to the beach and dropped their
anchors dodging all the fan fare.
Fa'atate
had a lovely whale tattooed on
her back sides. Notice they carry a spare steering oar and are ready
for the shore boat to come pick them up with their fenders over the
side.
The
Hokulea and Hikianalia
anchor next to each other,
having last been together in New Zealand back in 2014.
Avatar
is anchored out in Matavi Bay, watching over all the festivities.
On
shore, men dressed in traditional costumes, covered with tattoos,
were blowing the welcome wood carved horns, while another lady was
wailing over the loud speaker, some sort of chant.
I
thought they would be brought ashore by a small boat, but these are
canoes, they can anchor in very shallow water. So the crews just
jumped over the sides and walked ashore!
There
was quite a crowd waiting to greet them. Notice Point Venus
lighthouse in the background.
On
the back side of Point Venus, there is a small inlet, where we
anchored the dinghy, away from the crowds. They also had two older
wooden outrigger sailing canoes used on shore for decoration.
They
covered the sand seating area for the VIPs with big palm fronds.
This
lady was the hostess who showed the VIPs to their seats.
Russell,
the captain of the Hokulea, carrying
his purple feather gift, like the kings and chiefs used to carry. And
he is wearing his many woven and flower leis.
The
woman with the pink bag and giant flower crown is the Captain of the
Fa'atate.
The
drummers beat loudly on their drums!
Then
the warrior dancers put on a show.
The
warriors came in all sizes and shapes. Some heavily tattooed and
others not.
Then
the Tane's and the Vahinie's mixed it up, shouting, hooping and
hollering as well as stomping their feet and swinging their hips!
This
guy was my favorite!
I
think they were all smiling and very proud to be part of such a great
event.
Vahines
reaching for the stars.
My
girlfriend Linda, from Jacaranda, and I had been waiting for
this moment. Us also, so proud to be a part of it all.
The
map showing the course of their circumnavigation.
The
view of the beach from aboard Avatar.
The
Voyaging Canoe's anchored behind of Point Venus.
When
we were on the beach, we had a made a point to go meet Russell, the
captain after the ceremony. We congratulated him on his successful
trip. He explained to us that he was only the Captain from Galapagos
to here and that the crew changed many times for different legs of
the voyage, all volunteers. When we told him we were also on a boat
anchored out, he said they would be giving tours of the canoe later
in the day. So after lunch, we saw him on deck when we were heading
back to shore. We asked if he was giving tours, and he said “no,
but you are welcome to come aboard”. Wow, really? A private tour
with the Captain? How lucky can we be? I had a feeling, Mike's
sister Pat, who had been one of the original members of the Voyaging
Society and had helped to raise the money to build Hokulea back
in the 70s, was looking out for us from the other side, making
special things happen for us.
So
aboard we went! This is the bow section. Take a look at the size of
the wooden cleat the anchor is tied off to and where she is often
towed from into ports. Also note, the boat is built with traditional
style, but using modern lines now, not coconut fibers to tie it
together. There is not one screw or fastener holding the boat
together!
In
1978, on her second voyage, Hokulea capsized in the Molakai
channel in big seas. Eddie Aikau, a famous big wave surfer and
lifeguard at Wiahmea beach on the North shore of Oahu, was one of the
crew members. He took his surfboard and tried to paddle to shore for
help. But an airplane flying overhead saw their flares and called
the USCG. Eddie was never found. He is a legend in Hawaii and this
plaque was made to honor him. It says “No greater love have a man
than this, to lay down his life for his friends.”
A
Trident shell horn and someone's leis.
The
canoe hulls themselves are open, but they have tied this canvas to
make small cabins for the crew to sleep in. Each one had a mat and a
dry bag. Can you imagine sleeping in there while crossing the
ocean?!?
Each
one of these boxes holds different equipment or supplies. The center
box behind the propane tank was the “galley” where they cooked.
(wonder how they lit a fire on the boat to cook 1000 years ago?!?)
They did have satellite communications, so the kikis (kids) in Hawaii
could follow along and the crew could update their Facebook page and
web site with blogs. (How else you gonna fund an amazing trip like
this?) www.hokulea.com
Me
standing on the deck next to the mini Maoi, which was a gift from the
Rapa Nui people (Easter Island). He was sent to watch over them and
give them safe passage back home.
Mike
holding onto the steering oar.
Mike
and Captain Russell on the deck.
I
also took a try at the steering oar, and let me just say, that is one
heavy piece of wood!!
Every
boat needs a figure head, and when you have a double hulled canoe,
you get to have two of them.
Tane
and Vahinie, of course!
Back
on shore we went to listen to some speeches given by crew members.
Many talked about how spiritual the experience of sailing an
ancestral boat was to them. And how amazing it is out there on the
ocean with only the sun and the stars to guide them. Here is where I
met Kala Tanaka, not only the Captain of Hikianalia from
Hawaii to Tahiti, but also a full fledged “navigator”. This
means she knows and understands how all things point us in our
direction. She grew up with her dad, who is a master navigator and
canoe builder, but she learned not just from him, but from many of
the “elders”. She is the first of the “younger generation”
to Captain and navigate one of these ocean going canoes. She
instantly became my new hero!! It is like she is the real “Moana”
from the movie!
So
speaking of the movie “Moana”, the locals here are very proud of
this movie and all young kikis want to be her. So the hosts made
arrangements for the “real” Moana and Maui to show up at the
party.
This
is the representation of the mythical island of Tahiki from the movie
which will be used as the backdrop.
We
decided we wanted to be Maui and Moana too, just like all the kikis!
The
crowd went wild as the outrigger canoe came sailing up to the beach
with real people in it. I thought they were going to maul the boat
they were so excited!
But
the crowd miraculously parted as the boat reached the beach. It
landed right at our feet!
As
far as these kids were concerned, it really was Moana and Maui!! The
legend lives!!!
When
the canoes arrive back in Hawaii in June (all three will sail
together from here to there), the Polynesian Voyaging Society is
hosting a really huge party. Be sure to check it out on the internet
if you can't be there yourself!
And
Please, please people, Malama Honua: take care of island Earth!!
She is the only island we have in this vast universe!!
Aloha
and Nana! (Hawaiian and Tahitian for Bye!)
