Marquesas Cultural Festival (Matava’a)Opening Ceremony

This festival was originally the main reason we wanted to come back to the Marquesas. There is a big festival every 4 years, but on the in-between years they do a small one. Festivals are held every two years in December. We had missed the big festival in 2015 in Hiva Oa, but our friends, Chuck and Linda on Jacaranda, had been to that one. Their photos were quite inspiring. We liked the idea of coming to the small festival, because of less people, and it is more for the locals than the tourist. I would guess there were about 200 or so tourists and about 1000-1500 Marquesans that were here. Finally the day had come for the start of the festival, 18 December 2017, in the village of Vaitahu, on the island of Tahuata. A small island south of Hiva Oa, with NO airport. So anyone coming had to come by boat! This made it perfect for us.

There are about 7 boats anchored in the bay of Hanatefau about 1.5 miles away from Vaitahu. One of our friends arranged for a boat to come pick up 6 of us in his launch, so we would not have to drive our dinghies into the crowded anchorage. The man was somewhat on time, but was having trouble keeping his outboard running.

We made it to the quay, but he had to paddle back to his mooring.

You can see it is a small quay and a lot of boats unloading lots of people. We noticed some small boats leaned up against the wall, picked up, right out of the water.

There is a large French Navy ship and a launch bringing the officers ashore in full dress. Also anchored out is the red ferry boat that runs up to Atuona on Hiva Oa.

There were so many different kinds of transportation used to get here. This is a nicely painted wooden Va'a, or outrigger canoe, tied to a tree.

This guy rode his horse to town.

Getting ready for the ceremony, the guys are loading up the big drums to drive over to the ceremonial grounds.

This lovely lady has made a dress out of her Marquesas flag. I am dressed up in my new Matava'a T-shirt and flower crown to be festive.

This is what the carvers have been waiting for, a chance to sell their art work. These guys are playing their Ukuleles to attract attention to their booth, or maybe just having fun.

The parade over to the ceremonial grounds is underway!

Leading the way is the host island group of Tahuata.

This group took the short cut up the cliff, which cuts off a long way around on the road.

At the top of the cliff back on the road, they pose for a photo op, hollering their chant.

From the road we can look back over the bay and see the loading quay on the far side. Lots of boats!! I think I counted 40 sailboats, but not all are in this photo.

A view of the ceremonial grounds from up on the road.

We find a place to sit on the rock stadium seats behind the drummers.

The spectators are ready. Polynesia 1, TV channel is there to film it for the folks in Tahiti. The big building in the back ground is where most of the dancers from the other islands are camping out.

Some drums are painted with faces and others are carved, but all the drummers are dressed in costume and ready to play.

Notice, some of the drums are so tall that the drummers have to stand on stools to be tall enough to play them. And that one big guy has an amazing tattoo on his back and arm!

The ceremonial chief is making his way to the stadium seats along with the women from his clan. Check out the special lei on his neck.

I recognize this guy from Nuku Hiva when the cruise ship was arriving. He has a Triton shell horn in his hand, feathers in his hair, bone necklace, tattoos all over him and wearing traditional garb.

The horn blowers, blow to announce the coming of the dance troupes. Now we can see the wiry guy from Nuku Hiva also has a ceremonial club hanging on his back.

The big princess, dressed in white, does her wailing, to welcome the groups from the other islands, as well as us spectators.

First is the group of people who are the organizers of the event.

Miss Marquesas is leading that group.

Each group has a chief or leader of the dance troupe, this one has both a big and a little guy. I have to apologize, I don't remember which island these guys are from.

They are chanting and howling as they pass the spectators.

Next island group was much smaller and the guy in the yellow, their leader.

Lots of kids in this group. And the leader has an impressive cow horn club.

I do remember this was the group from Ua Poa, because their dance leader was quite flamboyant!

The last group was from host island Tahuata. The crowd of course went wild. This guy was the previous dance leader and this year he has turned over the duties to his oldest son. Obviously a proud poppa!

The men of Tahuata!

With all the groups now on the grounds, they wait their turn to dance for us.

The horn blowers at rest.

The raising of the flags. From left, French Polynesia, France, and Marquesas.

Everyone is now waiting for the welcoming speeches to be over.

And in case you thought the sea looked calm, I caught this breaking wave behind the dancers, this is the Marquesas after all, known for rolly anchorages!

Let the dancing begin! Buff dude front and center!!

They slap their chests and legs and chant loudly. (be sure to look at videos on my you tube page!)

Spectators on both sides of the dancers.

Giant man in yellow leads his group. The girls are singing and hooping it up in this group.

Third troupe ready. A couple of those guys have very impressive tattoos!

Their leader calls out to the crowd.

The Ua Poa group watch as their leader does the bird dance (a really must see video on my YouTube page!) He got loud cheers for his efforts.

And finally the Tahuata group.

These are the same group I watched practice last week.

The men of Tahuata strut their stuff!

For the grand finale, all the groups take the shape of a giant Maui hook and sing together. Wow, not sure how they will top this, but we have 3 days of dance demonstrations and competitions!!