The
island of Tahuata is just South of Hiva Oa. A chart of the island
from Charlie's Charts of Polynesia will help you see where we are.
It was December 11th and we had to get back to Tahuata
before the crowds arrive for the festival. We anchored near Hapatoni
in our favorite bay Hanatefau on the SW side of the island.
When
we were here before the bread machine was out of order, so by request
we delivered 10 baguettes to our friend Tahina. Later we find the
bread machine had been fixed, so it was not really necessary. Thank
god they fixed it, with several thousand people about to descend on
the island. Hanatefau was were we saw several green flash sunsets
when we were here in October. So we watched hoping for another one.
This
anchorage had some of the best sunsets we have seen in all of French
Polynesia.
In
order to see a green flash, you must have a clear shot to the
horizon, with no clouds interrupting the view. So it was not to
happen this night, but still quite lovely!
Close
up, sometimes it seems I can hear the sun sizzle as it drops into the
ocean. And I love how the tops of the little wavelets reflect the
glow of the setting sun.
The
next morning our friendly neighbors, the dolphins show up (we were
told) to have sex in this bay!! We never actually saw it, but it
seems like a good probability, because there are many of them and
then they start jumping for joy. First, just a splash.
But
with patience, and having my finger on the ready at the shoot button,
I lucked out with this shot.
Then
they swim around again.
And
this guy must have had sex, he is doing a back flip!! He has a very
white speckled belly.
Then
they swim close together again. Only 9 showing in this shot, but
there were likely at least a dozen of them.
We
took the dinghy on the 1.5 mile ride North to Vaitahu, the main
village where the festival will be held. The locals were practicing
their dance, so we stopped in for a preview.
David,
the fellow in red shorts with tattoos, is also a very good carver.
He lives in Hapatoni village. Each Island will have its own dance
troop for the festival, which come from all the villages on their
islands.
It
was interesting to note that many of the drummers from Tahuata were
women! Drum on ladies!
Each
dance tells a story. Sometimes on their feet, sometimes while
sitting.
This
young lady had the moves down pat!
Now
the men are paddling onto the floor.
Dancing
circles around their women.
I
could feel the beat of the drums and Ukuleles pounding in my chest.
There
are already half a dozen boats anchored in Vaitahu Bay and expecting
a large crowd, not just of sailboats, but local boats too.
Transportation
to Hapatoni by road requires 4 wheel drive!
The
stage is empty waiting for the dancers to arrive, with an interesting
almost spider like drawing on their wall.
Back
at the Quay, the kids were having fun jumping and splashing around in
the water.
Back
in our tranquil bay of Hanatefau, it is time for another spectacular
sunset!
Clouds
are moving in and so are more boats!
The
faster way to Vaitahu, this boat crosses the sunset in front of us on
the way back to the village.
The
sun is going, going........
Gone.
And
the speed boat makes it back home to Hapatoni before dark.
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