10 October 2017
Hanatefau
bay, is the far side of a larger bay which has the village of
Hapatoni in it. We dingyed over to the quay to check it out. Only
about 100 people live here on the SW side of the island of Tahuata.
At
the village quay we are greeted by the Catholic Virgin Mary monument.
And this welcome sign.
We
were surprised to find this old ferry boat high and dry and looking
in a serious state of decay. Notice that people here don't have
aluminum skiffs, they mostly still use old dug out canoes with
outriggers.
Several
ladies were weaving palm fronds soaked in saltwater. Cool paint job
on this outrigger canoe, and notice how he uses aluminum roofing to
keep the rain out of it!
This
is the main road through Hapatoni, later told it is called the
Queen's highway, from a time in the 1800's when the Queen of the
Marquesas visited the village.
The
trees here look like they may have been planted in the 1800s too!
These
are big old trees which I had to have my photo with!
In
a distance we can see the anchorage over at Hanatefau.
The
Queen's highway is lined with flowers and breadfruit trees.
These
friendly ladies waved to us as we walked by, just hanging out.
The
road runs close to the water in some places.
But
it seemed to turn into a very old overgrown road after a while. At
the village, we had met another couple from the catamaran “Tao”
also in the anchorage. Mike and Philippe are hiking ahead of Nathalie and I.
The
view down to the blue water. I guess that palm tree wanted a better
view too, look how it grew out over the cliff.
Now
we are starting to have to rock climb and we begin to think we missed
the turn in the road.
Philippe
shows Nathalie which way to go to get through the ravine we came
upon.
Don't
slip, or it is strait down to the rocks and sea!
We
arrived below this home we can see from the anchorage and realized
Philippe had led us on just another adventure through the jungle.
As
we climbed up toward the house with the red roof, we could see they
had a lovely view!
And
lots of flowering trees in their yard.
A
part of their view over the red ginger flowers.
Finally
we found the road on the other side of the house. It is still dirt
and mostly one lane. So when this big truck came, we gave him plenty
of room.
He
was carrying barrels. Of what, we don't know. Could be either water
or diesel.
There
is a big lighted cross on this section the hill where we can see both
sides of the bay.
From
here we can see the red roofed house we had climbed up to below us.
And
all the way to the South point of the bay where the village and quay
are with our dinghies.
On
the North side of the cross we can see all three boats at anchor in
Hanatefau.
We
got Philippe to take our photo with Avatar behind us.
Back
on the road, the jungle is getting thicker.
We
spotted these strange looking trees.
It
has virtually no leaves just little pods hanging from it.
We
found some pods on the ground and it looked like cotton on the inside.
These are called Kapok trees, the soft stuff in the pods can be used
to stuff pillows, and at one time, long ago, the USCG used this
material to stuff life-jackets! (who knew this trivia? Miguel did!)
Great
view through the trees of our boats as we walk along the road.
The
road starts going back up hill again, so we let Philippe and Nathalie
go on and we decide to head back to the village, since we had not
realized it would be such a hike and did not wear the proper shoes.
We
saw another view of Avatar through the trees in that lovely blue
water.
Here
banana trees line the road.
Avatar
in the distance.
Road
less traveled for sure!
Carved
through the cliffs, the road offers great views.
Two
different types of flowers we had not seen before. Love the way the
petals turn from blood red to orange to yellow. The stamen pistil
has orange on the end and yellow on the side buds.
And
this white petaled one with yellow and brilliant red buds on the
stamen.
We
caught these little birds bathing in a puddle in the road.
I
loved the heart shapes on the railing around this yellow house.
Then
we come across this big cement open cistern full of water.
On
a round stone mounted at one end,
I
caught a photo of this adorable little bird with bright red on his
head and butt.
This
horse was tied to the tree, but no sign of his rider.
He
was quite friendly though, with his white spot on his forehead.
This
is a Noni plant. You can buy juice from this plant in your local
grocery store. It is a natural immune system booster.
I
had seen the fruit before and thought it looked like an alien, but
now I find each of those little spots is where a small flower grew.
This bee is taking advantage of the pollen.
Walking
down the road, we were spotted by this artist, Marc Barsisnas, and he
invited into his workshop to watch him work.
He
has some amazing carvings and is a very talented man.
What
is this piece carved from bone??
It
is a nose flute and Marc demonstrates how to play it for us. We had
been given a bamboo carved nose flute as a wedding present and we
never have been able to play it!!
Marc's
son feeds their calf with a huge baby bottle of milk.
This
papaya tree is loaded with fruit!!
Mike
stands by another one of the ancient giants.
This
is a very old small stone church, where the Hapatonians love to sing.
We
are almost back to the quay and get another view of the anchorage.
This
huge old tree was in front of the church.
A
view through the cemetery looking back at the church.
Surprisingly,
there is an ancient mare temple next to the cemetery. We found out
that in the 1700s before white man arrived with his diseases, this
valley used to be home to 6000 Marquesans!
A
bright red and yellow type of bird of paradise flower.
Back
on the queen's highway, heading back into the village.
A
copra shed on the hill.
We
found another man carving this piece of wood in the village center.
So many talented people on these islands.
These
spectacular purple orchids,
Are
part of this yard decoration.
Back
at the quay, the women are still weaving palm fronds. We learned that each village must provide 300 of these for the village of
Viatahu for the festival in December.
We
were given so much fruit by the kind people we met. Here in my fruit
basket we have star fruit, oranges, avocados, mangoes bananas and the
flower from a squash plant which is eaten in an omelet.
Plus
we got a big bunch of green bananas, now hanging on the bimini while
we wait for them to ripen.
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