The
village of Hanavave on the island of Fatu Iva has been one of our favorite spots,
because we had such great adventures here and the people have been
super sweet and generous. We will only spend a couple more days
here, so I made some banana bread and delivered it to several people
around the village.
The
night of October 5th , 2017 the full moon is rising over the
village.
Our
friend Mary, who was the one on the mountain, tending to her banana
plantation, that told us we were on the wrong path to the waterfall,
showed us how a modern Marquesan shreds a coconut using and electric
machine with a toothed knob on the inside of a metal bowl.
These
are red bananas. They must be cooked to be eaten.
Angel
shows me how you just slice them up and fry them in the pan.
Her
kitten is playing in Mike's crocks.
At
Poi's house, one of the cousins is holding baby Poiani. Poi means sky
and ani means paddler. So he is Poi's little sky paddler!! ;-)
The
boys are playing marbles in the back yard.
Our
friend Jacques has finished several large tiki carvings which they
will sell in Tahiti in November. Mike helps display them for the
photo with him.
The
Marquesan cross, is carved like a tattoo in the butt of the tiki.
Jacques
also has an electric coconut shredder and demonstrates to us how it
works. The coconut chunks are caught from flinging by the metal bowl
and you have to place a catchment bowl under to collect the shavings
and juice.
So
Mike offers to take a turn at it.
Once
you have all the coconut shredded, place it in a cheese cloth and
squeeze all the cooc milk out of it. Now you are ready to cook just
about anything in it. (they boil meat in it or put it on raw fish and
many other uses, and it is yummy!)
It
is said that Polynesian babies rarely touch the ground, and so it
seems. This adorable little girl checks me out while her Daddy is
holding her.
Next
is grandma's turn.
Finally
Momma gets her back.
We
took a short trip to the North of the anchorage in the dingy to see
what was in that direction. Another interesting cave behind the
rocks.
And
the spot in the middle over the beach where there are no plants on
the cliff is where a waterfall would be, if it was raining.
The
Aranui 5, a half cruise ship, half cargo ship, steams into the bay
from Omoa and drops anchor around mid day. They dropped off many
passengers in Omoa who will walk the 4 hours to Hanavave on the steep
curvy mountain road. Lucky for them it was a semi-cloudy day and not
too hot!
Our
artisan friends and the rest of the village are getting ready for
them to arrive, setting up a tent to display their art work.
Down
on the quay, the locals have brought their products to sell to the
ship. And their fuel drums to be filled or exchanged.
A
few people are waiting at what looks to be a bus stop, but really is
just a covered sitting area. Notice the tiki by the launch ramp
overlooking the harbor.
These
lovely ladies are waiting to be whisked out to the ship to put on a
show for the tourists. There are Mary's banana's ready to go too!
The
copra is bagged and in the shipping crate.
The
supply barge comes in with the heavy stuff, not much waterline left
before sinking there! (or just looks like it I hope)
Apparently
they don't use the crane to off load the barge, but a front end
loader lifts up the heavy stuff to place on the quay.
Theresa's
Magasin's truck is loaded and heading back to the store.
The
tourists are finally arriving by road and they check out the art
under the tent.
Jacques
shows us that a wheelbarrow is not just a Marquesan truck, but also a
lounge chair.
Mark
and Cedric show their fancy necklaces while our friend Christian
watches from his wheelbarrow lounge chair.
Wood
carvings by Simon and Cici. Do you remember seeing them make these
paddles in the earlier blog?
Poi's
carving table. With our fish hook and ceremonial club which we will
buy later.
Another
table full of beautiful art work, including carved tikis, manta rays,
turtles and a small club.
The
men, including the little girl's dad play local music for the
enjoyment of both the tourists and the locals.
The
local aluminum boat fleet tied to the rocks, with our dingy hiding in
the midst.
The
Aranui 5 shuttle boat comes in to pick up the passengers.
Loaded
with guests, they head back to the ship.
Away
they go, beyond the rip rap which protects the harbor.
The
sun is setting and this is the most beautiful time of day here. As
the light changes, the wise man shows up, riding his camel.
Mary
Magdalene is looking at her baby Jesus.
An
orange glow is taking over the pinnacles and the goats are gathering.
Bay
of Virgins is possible one of the most breathtaking anchorages on the
planet, especially in the orange glow of the setting sun.
Many
more goats collect to watch the sunset from the pinnacle.
The
Aranui 5 is still anchored behind us as the sun drops and the clouds
are a magnificent rosy pink.
The
sun sets in a blaze of glory!
And
we have grown to love this place and her people. It will be hard to
leave.
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