Hokulea World Voyage of Malama Honua

     The Hokulea is a Polynesian voyaging canoe that was built in Hawaii in 1976. By sailing from Hawaii to Tahiti in the early 1980s she proved that the Polynesians were able to sail around the Pacific Ocean by using only stars and other navigational clues, such as waves, currents and birds. They do not even have a compass! In May of 2014 the crew of the Hokulea and members of the Polynesian Voyaging Society departed Hawaii on a round the world voyage of “Malama Honua”, which means caring for “island Earth”, using only those same navigational techniques. Quite a huge endeavor for such a small open double hulled canoe. They would sail in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, so they would have to learn ALL the stars, of where they rise and where they set and have it memorized.

      Their first stop was again Tahiti, then on to the other islands West of here, North of Australia, through the Indian Ocean, round Cape of Good Hope in Africa, up the Atlantic to NYC where they met with UN representatives, then on through the Panama Canal and back into the Pacific Ocean. On April 14, 2017 they successfully completed their circumnavigation by again landing in Tahiti, and we were lucky enough to be there!

      There had been a hum in Tahiti about their arrival. To circumnavigate with out any of the currently available technology, like compass, GPS or other electronic devices, is truly a huge accomplishment. It is hard enough just sailing around with that equipment!! The village of Mahina by Point Venus were their official hosts and they spent the entire day before decorating the beach and shoreline. We sailed Avatar up to the anchorage the day before as well.

By the next morning lots of people had arrived to welcome them.

Also the newer Hawaiian canoe Hikianalia, who had come down from Hawaii and the local Tahitian canoe Fa'atate sailed out to meet the Hokulea to congratulate her on completing the circle.

Hikianalia is more modern and is fitted out with motors and satellite communications, so she can maneuver under her own power.

Fa'atate's crew were singing and playing Ukuleles. Many of the crew members were women including the Captain!

The Hokulea!

We went out in our dinghy to join in the crowd and get some photos of her with the sails up, even though there was no wind at all.

The one guy raised his arm to say, “we did it!!”

This is a good view of the steering oar, which is not easy to hold onto when there is a big following sea rolling under the boat.

There were several small sailing canoes out as the welcome committee as well.

Check out the laminated beams they use for holding the outriggers away from the canoe.

The boats slowly made their way to Tahiti and Point Venus.

This is a double decker Polynesian outboard canoe all decorated up from the Tahiti Yacht Club.

Even this paddle boarder brought his dog out to greet them. (like I used to do with Sophie)

At the entrance to a small channel behind the reef, everyone paddled or swam out to get to see these well respected Polynesians.

My good friend, Jasna, was on shore and took this photo of us as we approached the beach with the boats behind us.

One at a time each canoe came up close to the beach and dropped their anchors dodging all the fan fare.

Fa'atate had a lovely whale tattooed on her back sides. Notice they carry a spare steering oar and are ready for the shore boat to come pick them up with their fenders over the side.

The Hokulea and Hikianalia anchor next to each other, having last been together in New Zealand back in 2014.

Avatar is anchored out in Matavi Bay, watching over all the festivities.

On shore, men dressed in traditional costumes, covered with tattoos, were blowing the welcome wood carved horns, while another lady was wailing over the loud speaker, some sort of chant.

I thought they would be brought ashore by a small boat, but these are canoes, they can anchor in very shallow water. So the crews just jumped over the sides and walked ashore!

There was quite a crowd waiting to greet them. Notice Point Venus lighthouse in the background.

On the back side of Point Venus, there is a small inlet, where we anchored the dinghy, away from the crowds. They also had two older wooden outrigger sailing canoes used on shore for decoration.

They covered the sand seating area for the VIPs with big palm fronds.

This lady was the hostess who showed the VIPs to their seats.

Russell, the captain of the Hokulea, carrying his purple feather gift, like the kings and chiefs used to carry. And he is wearing his many woven and flower leis.

The woman with the pink bag and giant flower crown is the Captain of the Fa'atate.

The drummers beat loudly on their drums!

Then the warrior dancers put on a show.

The warriors came in all sizes and shapes. Some heavily tattooed and others not.

Then the Tane's and the Vahinie's mixed it up, shouting, hooping and hollering as well as stomping their feet and swinging their hips!

This guy was my favorite!

I think they were all smiling and very proud to be part of such a great event.

Vahines reaching for the stars.

My girlfriend Linda, from Jacaranda, and I had been waiting for this moment. Us also, so proud to be a part of it all.

The map showing the course of their circumnavigation.

The view of the beach from aboard Avatar.

The Voyaging Canoe's anchored behind of Point Venus.

      When we were on the beach, we had a made a point to go meet Russell, the captain after the ceremony. We congratulated him on his successful trip. He explained to us that he was only the Captain from Galapagos to here and that the crew changed many times for different legs of the voyage, all volunteers. When we told him we were also on a boat anchored out, he said they would be giving tours of the canoe later in the day. So after lunch, we saw him on deck when we were heading back to shore. We asked if he was giving tours, and he said “no, but you are welcome to come aboard”. Wow, really? A private tour with the Captain? How lucky can we be? I had a feeling, Mike's sister Pat, who had been one of the original members of the Voyaging Society and had helped to raise the money to build Hokulea back in the 70s, was looking out for us from the other side, making special things happen for us.

      So aboard we went! This is the bow section. Take a look at the size of the wooden cleat the anchor is tied off to and where she is often towed from into ports. Also note, the boat is built with traditional style, but using modern lines now, not coconut fibers to tie it together. There is not one screw or fastener holding the boat together!

In 1978, on her second voyage, Hokulea capsized in the Molakai channel in big seas. Eddie Aikau, a famous big wave surfer and lifeguard at Wiahmea beach on the North shore of Oahu, was one of the crew members. He took his surfboard and tried to paddle to shore for help. But an airplane flying overhead saw their flares and called the USCG. Eddie was never found. He is a legend in Hawaii and this plaque was made to honor him. It says “No greater love have a man than this, to lay down his life for his friends.”

A Trident shell horn and someone's leis.

The canoe hulls themselves are open, but they have tied this canvas to make small cabins for the crew to sleep in. Each one had a mat and a dry bag. Can you imagine sleeping in there while crossing the ocean?!?

Each one of these boxes holds different equipment or supplies. The center box behind the propane tank was the “galley” where they cooked. (wonder how they lit a fire on the boat to cook 1000 years ago?!?) They did have satellite communications, so the kikis (kids) in Hawaii could follow along and the crew could update their Facebook page and web site with blogs. (How else you gonna fund an amazing trip like this?) www.hokulea.com

Me standing on the deck next to the mini Maoi, which was a gift from the Rapa Nui people (Easter Island). He was sent to watch over them and give them safe passage back home.

Mike holding onto the steering oar.

Mike and Captain Russell on the deck.

I also took a try at the steering oar, and let me just say, that is one heavy piece of wood!!

Every boat needs a figure head, and when you have a double hulled canoe, you get to have two of them.

Tane and Vahinie, of course!

      Back on shore we went to listen to some speeches given by crew members. Many talked about how spiritual the experience of sailing an ancestral boat was to them. And how amazing it is out there on the ocean with only the sun and the stars to guide them. Here is where I met Kala Tanaka, not only the Captain of Hikianalia from Hawaii to Tahiti, but also a full fledged “navigator”. This means she knows and understands how all things point us in our direction. She grew up with her dad, who is a master navigator and canoe builder, but she learned not just from him, but from many of the “elders”. She is the first of the “younger generation” to Captain and navigate one of these ocean going canoes. She instantly became my new hero!! It is like she is the real “Moana” from the movie!

So speaking of the movie “Moana”, the locals here are very proud of this movie and all young kikis want to be her. So the hosts made arrangements for the “real” Moana and Maui to show up at the party.

This is the representation of the mythical island of Tahiki from the movie which will be used as the backdrop.

We decided we wanted to be Maui and Moana too, just like all the kikis!

The crowd went wild as the outrigger canoe came sailing up to the beach with real people in it. I thought they were going to maul the boat they were so excited!

But the crowd miraculously parted as the boat reached the beach. It landed right at our feet!

As far as these kids were concerned, it really was Moana and Maui!! The legend lives!!!

When the canoes arrive back in Hawaii in June (all three will sail together from here to there), the Polynesian Voyaging Society is hosting a really huge party. Be sure to check it out on the internet if you can't be there yourself!

And Please, please people, Malama Honua: take care of island Earth!! She is the only island we have in this vast universe!!

Aloha and Nana! (Hawaiian and Tahitian for Bye!)