Life in the Gambiers

On the island of Mangareva is the main village called Rikitea. About 1200 or so people live on this island, so there is lots of boat traffic. Cruisers anchor here, pearl farm boat tenders head out to their jobs, and kids learning to paddle as part of their PE are all in the anchorage.

These kids are just learning to paddle. We can tell be cause it is a training boat with two hulls lashed together, so it cannot capsize. The school probably makes them all wear life jackets. We were cheering them on as they went past us.

Other kids learn early. This guy was out on his dad's paddle board, just drifting along one morning.

Big brother takes younger brother out for a paddle in a kayak. The smoke on shore is from burning yard trimmings, which also helps to eliminate mosquitoes.

At the school we saw a couple of interesting paintings. This one depicting an oyster shell with a pearl.

Traditional Polynesian symbols, with a tiki hidden behind the fire hydrant and a ying & yang symbol snuck into the center of Maui's hook.

We had many of the “Shark suckers” which look like Remoras live under our boat when in the Rikitea anchorage. They come out anytime we throw leftovers or compost-able veggie trimmings over the side. They usually only eat meat, definitely not vegetarians these fish! But fun to feed. They were like our temporary pets. The top of their heads have a big suction cup on it and they just attach themselves to the bottom of the boat (like we are some kind of big shark) and wait for us to throw food overboard.

This ship is the Claymore, which is the ship that services Pitcarn Island. It comes here to pick up passengers who fly in, then takes them on the 300 mile passage to the island where they stay for the week. This is the closest airport to that island. We plan to go there one day ourselves!!

The main supply ship for the Gambiers is the Taporo VIII. They have just rounded the end of the island and are coming in with a full load.

The fairly large ship weaves its way in through the narrow channel in the reef to get to the anchorage.

Everyone and their uncle comes down to the dock on supply ship day to pick up their packages from Tahiti.

The crane is unloading 4 barrels of diesel. This is one of the main things this ship delivers. Note the guy in the green vest over there watching the cargo carefully.

If you need to buy diesel, this guy in the little metal box takes your money and gives you a receipt to take to the other guy, who then gives you a barrel. You can only buy 50 gallon drums, so if you need less than that, you split it with other boats. Cost, just under $250 USd for one barrel!! Expensive!! But where else you gonna get it? No gas stations!

They deliver their cargo and then load up the empty tanks and containers to take back to Tahiti to refill. The 5 tall silver looking containers under the crane body are for jet fuel. The commune has a barge, similar to the one stacked on top of the green shipping containers, that schleps the jet fuel from the quay in Rikitea over to the airport motu.

Yo! Guys in the dinghy, do you see the ship headed out?!? Tonnage wins!

In 24 hours or less from the time of arrival, the ship is headed back to Tahiti for another load. It comes once a month.

This is a Dutch boat called Silverland, with our friends Marco and Mariah and their son Matis. It is their first boat! Luckily he is a carpenter, which all old wood boats need.

Silverland under sail, heading into Rikitea.

People from all over the world arrive here, on all different types of boats. Silverland is one of the larger family cruisers!

The view from one of our favorite spots in the Gambiers, Herve and Valerie's house on Terevai. It is on the West of the island group. That is Mangareva with the two peaks of Mount Duff on the right and Mount Mokotu.

On one of the sandy motus (an outer reef barrier island), footprints in the sand.(reminds me of a famous poem)

The norm is just our own footprints.

But the birds and the crabs leave footprints too!

A crab has just cleaned house, leaving a pile of sand by his door.

Even the waves leave a footprint. Each time one comes ashore, it leaves a line where it finishes its life.

Sometimes the wave brings in shells and rocks which it deposits on the sand. The leaves from the trees either blew out and are waiting to be washed away with the next tide, or they came in with the last one.

Erosion is a fascinating artful thing to see created by Mother Ocean.

A wave washes over a rock, creating more erosion.

Another gorgeous day in the Gambiers, but no wind means motoring to get to the NE motus near the airport.

Looking back at Mangareva from the NE side and the sun setting behind it in the West.

The sky turns pink and orange over a squall line out in the ocean to the SW. Our time in the Gambiers is coming to an end.

Walk on the Wild Side

Inside the lagoon we are protected from the loud surf of the wild ocean. It is a beautiful day and the motu is calling us to come visit.

The blues of the sea and sky are breath taking.

A sandpiper is checking out the tide line in the sand.

We tied up to the line that was there and looked back to check out the boats in the anchorage.

Avatar, sitting pretty in the one dark, deep water spot visible anywhere.

A large Pandanus tree has a trampoline in it's shade.

We found this Hermit crab checking out a possible new shell home, while inside of a coconut shell.

Ahh the beauty of human destruction. A large section of land had been cleared beyond the hut.

We did not have to walk very far and bingo, there is the noisy ocean, breaking on the barrier reef.

Good size waves, about 5-6 feet. Lots of white caps out there too!

There is sand down at the tide line, but grey coral rubble, baked in the sun is above the tide line.

Looking North, it is rubble as far as we can see.

Mike takes a rest on a bigger piece.

Interesting pieces of coral are just strewn about. Some have long strait lines.

While others look like brains, or crushed up pieces of poka dot rocks, which are the coral holes.

Some of the sand is quite fine and soft to walk on.

Others are sharp pieces of dead coral.

In the distance is what looks like a rock floating on another rock. It could be the Starship Enterprise or another La Paz Balandra rock.

The designs of the coral in the rock make interesting formations.

I see an ancient Polynesian woman with long hair and her arms are curled, lifting something. What do you see?

An old city of tube coral, with their mouths open at the top.

Another interesting tube coral fossil.

A city of coral apartments.

A sand puddle in a large piece of broken coral.

Three different types of coral fossils in one rock formation.

This small stone was trapped inside this larger stone, but somehow eroded by the sea. It would not come out of its hole.

Jagged pieces of coral sticking out above the water, until the next wave comes.

The waves breaking on the outer barrier are much bigger than the small ones that make it to shore over the wide expanse of coral.

That coral rock is teetering on top of the other one. Looks like a shark from here, but with out his tail.

Tube worm fossils on the left and a hole where I bet another small rock had been trapped long ago.

These are live shells all with critters living in them. Funny how the sea deposits them all in the same spot.

Walking back, we noticed this road. But did not see any cars! Hahaha!

Wonder where it goes and who drives on it??

Mike decides the trampoline makes a good place to kick back for a rest.

A maze of branches in the Pandanus tree.

The Pandanus roots and a cut off stump pointing at me!

I found this old fishing net hung up as a hammock, for my little siesta.

Mike's view of me from the trampoline.

Avatar waiting patiently for our return.

I try not to pick up too many shells, but then my name is Shelly, so it is hard not to. These are the treasures from our walk on the wild side.

This little guy with his two fingers sticking out, is still one of my favorites!

This is his underside, very orange and a few teeth looking things sticking up.

The sunset behind the island of Mangareva concludes another day in paradise.