We
are finally on actual road and have a great view of the pinnacles of
Hatiheu and her bay.
A
local house uses bamboo for a fence around their open air living
area.
A
tall tree with white flowers in bloom.
This
fancy fence was around the school. They used river rocks and lovely
carvings in the cement to make the pillars.
The
road is headed down to the bay.
At
a display beside the water, we notice this carving in the end of a
log.
A
long ago carved tree stump is protected by the elements with a
corrugated aluminum roof. He looks like a very big Marquesan!
The
sand is black and brown here in Hatiheu bay and the pinnacles make it
a stunning setting!
This
coconut tree is loaded! Do not stand below it!!
We
had lunch at the Chez Yvonne with these cute carvings on their
balcony fence.
A
large stone is set up to make a shade where some critter had been
eating a mango. It made a great place to sit as well.
On
the wall at Chez Yvonne I found the answer to my question about how
long people have been hiking on that trail. 1000 years!!! The
ancestors arrived between AD 900 and 1100, and brought with them
plants, pigs, dogs and chickens! The bottom drawing shows the
migration routes of the ancestors.
The
display continues talking about the rocks found on a small
uninhabited island just North of here called Eiao. The stones were
used from making Adze which is a small hatchet like tool used to
carve dug out canoes. Adze made from stones from this island have
been found as far away as Tahiti and Mangareva in the Gambiers.
To
the ancestors, pigs were quite important, not just for their meat,
but for their bones and teeth which were carved into ornamental
decorations. The food was so abundant that the settlers built a Tohua
for community social activities, and did not travel to far away
islands as often.
In
the 1600's times got tuffer with long droughts alternating with heavy
rain, which made life difficult for both farmer and fisherman.
Tribal warfare increased as food resources diminished. Marquesans
are renown for their carvings in wood, stone and bone as well as
their tattoo art.
The
first “Westerner” arrived in 1595, but not much contact with them
until the arrival of Captain Cook in 1774. It was then that social
structure and religion completely changed the way the Marquesan's
lived. Luckily their language, cuisine and arts were saved,
particularly the carvings and dances.
After
the Catholics and French almost eliminated their traditions, their
heritage is finally coming back. Archaeologists are studying the
paepaes (large stacked rocks homes were built upon) and the Tohua
(community centers) by using carbon dating and DNA analyses in
overseas laboratories. We are fortunate that their culture was not
completely wiped out and we get to see some of these interesting
archaeology sites ourselves.
This
is a photo of a photo facing South that was on the display. Anaho
bay is to the right. The middle bay, Haataivea, has its own white
sand beach and the bay to the left is the East side of the island,
Haatuatua bay. The peninsula protrudes toward us and more to the
left. This is the part we could not see because it was hidden in the clouds.
Another
photo of a photo shows Hakaui cliffs. Much of the North shore of
Nuku Hiva is impenetrable. Reminds me of the Napali Coast on the
Hawaiian island of Kauai.
On
the water front of the village of Hatiheu stands one of these ancient
areas.
There
are several carved rock statues, and you can see both sides of the
entrance to the bay of Hatiheu in the distance.
The
square jaw and big eyes seem to be the look of most tikis, whether
carved of stone or wood.
These
two are carved facing back to back from one stone. The left guy has
one of the ceremonial clubs carved by his side.
The
eyes on this carving seem quite different from the others.
The
center of the village is this very old church which has been
meticulously restored.
These
are modern days and the local construction guys were pouring cement
to make a new boat ramp. This guy is using a concrete vibrator to
get all of the air bubbles out.
The
cement arrives by truck and is then dumped into the bucket of an
excavator to pour.
Load
is full!
While
I was in the village, I used this Superman payphone to call some
family members. Another great spot to call from! It connects via
satellite and land line to make a connection that sounds like I am
just next door, even when talking to the East Coast of the USA, 6000
miles away!
A
beautiful yellow hibiscus flower growing along our walk.
It
was a hot day and this cool creek comes in right where the trail
meets the road, so I took the chance to cool off before hiking back over the high ridge.
Heading
back up the ridge from the village.
At
the top we saw a green and yellow looking parrot fly over us. Then
he landed in this tree. I think he is even looking at me!
Then
off he flew, flashing the yellow on top of his tail.
Back
on the Anaho side of the ridge, we can see the tide has gone out and
our dinghy looks high and dry in the sand down there.
A
marker watches us as we head back down.
It
was a lovely trail, an exhilarating hike and an overall fun day of
learning and exploring. Everything we dreamed of doing before we
came here!
