Monday, May 28, 2018

Hiva Oa Tiki Road Trip part 1


October 28, 2017
Along with some friends, Chris and Zane from Rosanne, we rented a car to explore the island. We had hoped to take a tour but the tour was $100 per person and the car rental was $100 for all four of us. So I read the tour book and pretend to be the tour guide.
We started the day very early when the rental company brought the car to us to the marina at 0630. When we departed Avatar was glowing in the early morning sun.


Hiva Oa is the biggest of the Southern Marquesas and has a very tall ancient volcanic ridge as her backbone. Which then makes a big hook on the SW corner of the island, but Traitor's Bay (also called Taaoa) is open to the East. As we follow the road East we get a great view looking back at the bay.


The trees were tall and large in the forest as we traveled on.


And the road was about 1.5 lanes of dirt and gravel.


The greenery of the jungle just takes over everything here.


When we stopped for a photo op, I saw this beautiful little purple puff ball flower among the ferns.


The altitude is getting high at 2917 feet, when we drove over the ridge near Mount Ootua. At this point we are entering a cloud forest, but we are still lower than Mount Temetiu, which is 3576 feet in the distance to the West of us.


We are so high up now, we can see the whole of Taaoa Bay and the island of Tahuata in the distance.


Chris taking a photo of Mt Ootua's peak in the cloud.


Suddenly we have a breathtaking view of the North side of the island.


This side of the backbone is full of steep deep valleys.


The peak still hiding in the clouds.


The wind obviously blows strong up from the ocean as this tree is completely wind swept on one side.


Going down now. Thank God the road is paved for this steep part!


This spectacular tree was full of huge air plants, all living off of the incredibly moist air up in these clouds.


The road turns back to dirt but it is in good shape, still going down!


Another huge air plant growing on the side of a not so small tree.


Still going down.....


Road is getting a bit rougher now and the green is trying to encroach on the road.


We stopped for another photo op, where we could see toward the NW bays. And below we notice a paved or cemented road, much nicer than the one we were on.


Our road was down to one lane and starting to look a bit precarious with the ocean blue horizon stretching out before us.


Finally below we could see a small village.


And several bays between the ridges to the East of us. This is the way we will go.


Looking toward the backbone of the island again we can see deep into some of those valleys now.


The road really does not get much better. Switchback to the left.


Switchback to the right. And don't miss the turn!! (Did I mention they only rent 4wd vehicles on this island?)


Lord I hope no one is coming the other way!


Another hair pin turn with no other cars in sight.


Down at the village and water's edge we find a superman phone booth with a fisherman's traditional outrigger canoe pulled up from the beach.


At least the road is flat now!! And lined with coconut palms.


As we drive up the next ridge we can see the road we had come down on the other side of the small bay.


At the top of this ridge we find a hole herd of goats just hanging out, enjoying the view.


And OMG what a view it is! Notice the white caps from the wind blowing into the bay? Not such a good place to anchor with the boat! Glad we rented the car.


This NE corner of the island has some pointy peaks!


The trees almost look like a kid has painted them there.


Good photo op! Thanks for taking the photo Chris!


This boulder looked like it was teetering on the peak and could roll down the cliff at any moment.


Another spectacular small bay and coconut plantation. Notice the brown water from the stream as it dumps into the turquoise water. It must be raining up there somewhere, or fed by a natural spring?


We see many ridges to the East of us. Wonder how many we will have to drive over to get to our destination?


This tree's leaves had some wart looking things on them?!?


But another tree had amazing brilliant orange flowers.


This plant's leaves are a deep purple, outlined with a florescent green.


Not sure if this is the same type of plant or not, but the leaves seem more red than purple and the green less obtrusive, but still lovely.


We finally arrive at the village of Puamau. Here is what we have been waiting to see, the Iipona Archaeological site, which was restored in 1991. There are several large tiki's as well as ceremonial platforms and huge ancient trees.


This is the reclining tiki, some call it the frog tiki because of the way it is crouched down in position.


Many of the tiki's show quite bad erosion, which is why they built roof structures over them.


But this is the main attraction: Takaii, the largest ancient tiki, standing 8 feet tall.  He is thought to have been carved in the 18th century after a big battle between several clans who came together for revenge against another clan who had killed a beloved Chief, Hanapaaoa.



This tiki is believed to be Takaii's wife, but she shows much more erosion.


Takaii with Zane and Chris.


I seem to disappear in the trunk of this huge tree next to Toea peak, a volcanic cliff which dominates the West side of the area. It is a giant rock which seems to emit some strong energy (Mana).


Looking back at the area with our little car in the back ground.


As I wondered around the perimeter I saw several faces in the old trees. This one was winking at me.


And this guy was snoozing but had really big eyebrows.


This archaeology site is rally well maintained and protected.


Takaii and the headless tiki.


A wood carved post for one of the roof structures.


This really shows the Toea peak and you can see how it dominates the site.


In case you did not notice, Mike by the reclining tiki in the previous photo.


Wonder if this is the head that came off the headless tiki or if it just represents some one who lost their head?


The site has many platforms made by layering rocks.


Another angle of Toea peak.


This plant has some spiky balls which when they were dried (like the brown ones in the back ground) they hurt to step on!!

To be continued...........

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