Fakarava North Rotoava Village

We took two days to sail the 30 miles inside the reef up to the village of Rotoava. We passed many motus, which are little islands on the barrier reef. The seas were flat, even though it was windy and there were wild looking looking clouds along the way. We passed by Hirifa, a very inviting looking anchorage, in the SE corner of the atoll. There is a marked channel along the inside of the reef, as well as a large wide one going up the middle of the basin. We and Jade went up the reef pass and Morning Light would meet us later where the two channels come together, after he got some divers to help him get his anchor out from around a “bommie” at the South anchorage. This can be a regular occurrence in Tuamotus. Pay close attention to where the next mark is, because they are usually located on top of a “bommie”. There were so many fish in the water, the birds were happy and easily fed.

WE anchored in Kakaiau near a gorgeous little cove. It had actual white sand on the beach! And the water was incredibly clear and turquoise over the white sandy bottom. In the next little cove over was the home of Toko. We had seen him waving us in for a visit, so we decided to meet the local on the beach. He had lived here his whole life he said, and grew up here with his parents, who have long passed now. He was alone and enjoyed visitors. His main job was making copra, a process done to coconuts that turns it into oil and is sold in many products world wide. He showed us his very humble abode and kitchen. We were amazed that anything could grown in the raised coral ground. But there seem to be plenty of green plants abound, especially coconut trees! He took us on the trail over to the ocean side. He said this is where he catches lobster! The sea was covered with white caps and looked rambunctious. Glad we were cruising inside the atoll! The “dirt” road which was over crushed coral, continued just a bit past Toko's property, where the ocean crossed over the reef, the end of the biggest motu on this atoll. If you took the road to the North, you would eventually meet up with a cement paved road that led to the village of Rotoava in the NE corner. Toko would collect the huge hermit crabs running everywhere and use them for fishing bait! We also saw big grey land crabs. Still have not yet seen one of those coconut crabs, which are reported to be huge! Toko raises coconut trees from sprouts and keeps his property very clean under the trees. He offered us two green coconuts to take back to the boat and drink, so he plucked them from the tree top with a big long special made stick. Another gorgeous sunset graced us, as we were all back together again.

The next day, the wind was perfect for a great sail, strong beam reach on flat, inside the atoll seas. The Avatar flew out in front of Jade, who staid right on our tail all the way, because his depth sounder had stopped working. Morning Light, with his huge Polynesian flag, followed along and we surely looked great in our 3 flock formation!

When we arrived, we found that Rotoava, truly was at the end of the rainbow. There was a big wharf where the supply ship tied up when in town, and inside of it was where we could tie up our dinghies. The houses on the water looked quite quaint, with most of them having fishing boats on hoists.

In town, we bought a phone card and called our families from this amazing payphone by the beach. Too good to be true! Most of the roads were “sand” dirt roads in town, but the one paved road goes out to the airport. I am still mesmerized by all the green plants after living in the Baja desert for so long. Most houses were quite well maintained, and had either a fishing boat or Proa (paddled outrigger canoe) in the yard. And the trees that have flower blossoms are still my favorite, so pretty! Of course not everyone had those trees, so they decorated their leafless ones with pieces of coral. Growing plants seemed to a big thing in most yards, not much grass here to mow! There is a big white and red roofed church overlooking the road and the lagoon. Some houses with tin type roofs used big lines run over them, tied down to sandbags, just in case the winds got too strong and tried to blow them away. All the roof edges were lined with gutters, which sent the water into big tanks. Rain is their main supply of water here, although we were told some people did have wells. It does rain a lot, so it is handy to be able to collect it for use! Some places had beautiful murals painted on them too.

When one fisherman brought in some of the biggest Dorado we had seen in ages, a big sting ray passed under the dock where the blood was dripping into the water. Soon sharks came as well, but this was the first big ray we had seen. The fisherman said he goes outside the atoll and catches these fish with a harpoon. He finds them under the big flocks of seabirds out there. Nice catch! And he had cute kids too!

Another man had built a custom sailing outrigger canoe. We had seen his sign explaining about his sponsors, with the boat under a tarp. One day he showed up and put it together to go sailing. It is built in the traditional way of tying together the beams, but the materials used were all modern. The hull was built of fiberglass and resign, the beams were tied with high tech lines like the ones used in America's Cup type boats. With a traditional type sail, he said the thing sails at 18 knots easily. It was quite impressive!

Rotoava has about 900 residents, but only a few have cars. Most get around on bicycles. We kept passing this one house where the kids were gathering to play music. Then we found out, there was to be a big show at the local school, and we were invited! Some of the teachers showed their stuff as they danced with big lays around their necks. Then the kids came out and showed off their drumming and dance moves in great costumes. These were the dances of their Marquesan ancestors. We felt privileged to see this show, not meant for tourists, but for parents and kids of the school. How special for us! The moon was so happy he was smiling down upon us, having just returned from being new and completely blacked out.

Motu

wild loooking clouds

Hirifa anchorage

Red marks to the left!

Green marks to the right (with birds feeding)

A beautiful little cove

Looking out from that beach

Our dingy with Avatar in the background anchored out

Toko's cove

Mike with Toko

Toko's kitchen

Hardly any dirt on the ground

but still lots of plant growing in the coral "dirt"

Path from Toko's out to the ocean

a wild and rambunctious ocean

the coral road

hermit crab

Mike holds hermit crab for photo

grey land crab

Toko's baby coconut trees

Toko gets us a coconut to drink

green drinkable coconut

another amazing sunset!

Three American boats sailing in Fakarava!

Jade and Morning Light

Village of Rotoava

Lovely homes on the waterfront of Rotoava

The phone booth where we made some calls

boats in the slings, no bottom paint required!

Sandy dirt road

lovely green baby palms

steep roofed house with his own fishing boat

huge tree with big leave vine growing up the trunk

flowering tree with proa in the yard

more flowering trees

coral decorating their driveway entrance

lovely home in Rotoava

Many plants in the yard

cactus garden in the tropics!

lovely white church

lines tided to sandbags to keep roof from blowing away

water collection and tank storage

mural on driveway doors

Tahitian Sting Ray

Fisherman's kids with Dorado catch

outrigger sailing boat

note the way the boat is tied together with high tech line

The builder on the right and his friends helping get ready to go sailing

traditional sail

main form of transportation in town

kids practicing playing music

drums waiting to be played

kids dressed up in costume playing those drums

teachers dancing with big lei's around their necks

one kid dressed as the cheif

great costumes!

dancing it up, even with a broken arm!

lovely girl doing her part of the dance

moon smiling down on us

on a different camera setting it was double smiling!