Monday, August 24, 2015

Sea of Cortez Island hopping

We spent 10 glorious days up in the Sea of Cortez enjoying life and testing out the boat.  We sailed pretty much strait up to Isla San Francisco, a full day's sail.  Just before we got to the anchorage the fishing reel when "ziiiiiiiiiig".  Mike told me to take it.  It was a beautiful Dorado which turns into Mahi Mahi when it lands on your plate.  Yummy fresh fish for dinner the very first night.  The next day we motored over to Isla Perdido (lost island) where 4 or 5 families live on a little rock that sticks up above a great snorkeling reef.  We went ashore and met some of the people and Mike bought me some lovely hand made jewelry.  Next was over to San Evaristo where we met up with our friend John on his boat Time Piece and our friends Charlotte and Steve who were house sitting for one of our La Paz Yachts clients (it is a small world after all).  We all had a great dinner at Lupe Sierra & Maggi Mae's restaurant (the only one in the little village).  We painted shells to put on their welcome sign.  It felt like being a kid again painting those shells, what fun!
We did not know exactly where to head next, but Sophie picked out an anchorage for us that was right on our way.  On the SW side of Isla San Jose, Amortajada is a great anchorage near a mangrove lagoon.  We had forgot about the no-see-ums, which tried to eat us up in the night.  Thank God for those mosquito burning coils which killed them all (and the regular mosquitos too).  Next day we had a lovely sail up the East side of San Jose.  Very rugged and beautiful island.  On the northern end there is a ranch located in the only livable valley.  Not sure how long they have been there, but several generations.  We met Alba, a young lady from La Paz who had married a man who grew up at the ranch.  They raised lots of goats, some cattle and chickens.  It was really a great setting, but they do get pounded by the North winds in the winter time.  The wind was out of the South for us and she said we were the first people she had ever seen anchor there.  Such nice friendly down home folks!
We snorkeled on some rocks looking for more dinner, but the big fish were elusive.  So we motored (no wind) over to Isla Los Animas which are some rocks that jut up from about 5000 feet deep in the middle of the Sea.  Come to find our dock neighbor, a charter boat, anchored in the only little spot there is.  Carlos was taking his guests diving, which was a place I had always wanted to do that.  Mike was so sweet, as he drove the boat around, while I jumped in with my snorkel gear to see what was under the water.  The rocks were full of life and dropped right off into the abyss, plus the water was amazing clear (like 50 feet or better).  Mike jumped in to cool off while I took the helm.  
Our next stop was back on the Baja peninsula at Bahia Rincon where we spent the night in perfectly calm weather.  The next day we went looking for Rancho Dolores where our friends in San Evaristo had told us about the oasis and ruins.  We got permission to hike the 5 km, but it was late morning and already starting to get hot.  We packed lots of water and left Sophie on the boat because of the distance and heat.  It took about 1.5 hours and we started seeing fruit trees after nothing but sand and cactus before that.  We met Felipe who lives up there alone, tending his fruit and guarding the ruins.  He showed us to the cave which turned out to be where the Monks kept their wine (I thought it was where they kept their dead).  Then we walked a bit further to the Oasis and natural spring.  This is the reason the mission was built here in the first place.  Fresh water is like gold in the desert!  We dunked our heads and filled our water bottles in the sweet refreshing water.  A bit further we found the ruins from the Mission Dolores which was built in 1721.  Nothing but a few walls left and a great view of the mountains.  It was a long hot walk, but totally worth it!!
We headed back to Isla San Fran again and then on to Isla Partida the next day.  We stopped and snorkeled some other rocks neither of us had ever dove before and we had several visits by the Sea Lions to check us out.  The fish were plentiful, but none wanted to come home for dinner with us.  Our last night alone we spent at Cardinal one of the many anchorages on the island.  Sophie was happy to get to walk on the beach there.  She is finally getting used to using the astro turf we bought for her to poop on the deck, but she still prefers land!
We headed back in to La Paz, where Mike's son Kevin and his friend Tim flew in to meet us.  As soon as they got in, we headed back out to Bahia Balandra where we spent a few more days playing, snorkeling and paddle boarding.  It was fun to have guests on board.  We even had several other friends show up on Sunday, via paddle boards and dingys, so it was an instant party!  So much fun had by all.  It was topped off with the best sunset of the trip! 
Below are some photos and I think Mike is going to write more at the end. Love ya'll, Shelly
Dorado landed!

Isla Perdido

At Isla San Francisco

Can you see the turtle head?

John snorkeling

King Angel fish

San Evaristo restaurant sign

Mike's shell

Shelly's shells

view from the resturant

Sophie reading the chart guide

Thunder head at sunset

Cloud halo

Rancho Isla San Jose

Goats ready to head to market

There is something lovable about Mike, even the cows and goats noticed!!

Buzzards drying their wings on a giant cactus

Baby goats

Loading up the goats into the panga

One mamma goat did not want her kid to leave and she tried swimming after the boat

Mike went out to rescue her and bring her back to shore

The dingy on the bech, Avatar at anchor and Isla Los Animas in the distance

The chart showing Isla Los Animas

Our friend Carlos on his charter boat

Isla Los Animas

Sea Lions sunning at Los Animas

the rocks I snorkeled

baby Sargent Major fish

The abyss at Los Animas

Blue spotted Damsel fish

Punta Colorado

hiking thru the desert

banana trees

resting at the Oasis

Spring at Oasis

Mission Dolores Ruins

Mission Dolores ruins

Back at the ranch

Avatar waiting at anchor

Isla Partida snorkel rocks

lots of King Angels

big school of Yellowtail Surgeonfish

rock looked like a flower

Very rare Golden Grouper

Puffer fish hiding

Big Male Sea Lion

curious female Sea Lion

Cardinal

Sophie swimming with her new pink life jacket on

Tim, Mike and Kevin aboard Avatar

Kevin takes Sophie for a ride

Tim working on the stand up part

Good job Tim!

Mike and Rob go collect the paddle boards that tried to escape from the boat

Sleeping sound after hard playing.  Like father like son.

Sophie loves to sleep on coils of line

Rickman cooking in my galley

Another Rickman cooking breakfast

Mike serving up special Iron Jack for Kevin's 40th birthday

Sophie dreaming about our next trip

Sunset from Balandra

Hola, My turn. After a pretty intense year, for especially Shelly, we got the boat to a point to try a shakedown. The original plan was to take several months in the Northern Sea of Cortez and do the shakedown cruise to test the new systems and equipment on the boat. As with all things in Mexico and the boating world delays not only impacted us and progress but others that were doing work on the boat. We just had to deal with things in Mexican Time. Finally we were able to take Avatar to the islands. 
     A shakedown is to try and use all the systems and equipment so that, not only, do we know how to use them but find out if they work. Luckily we only found a very few things that needed to be dealt with. They were, very soon after getting back to La Paz. 
    This made for a wonderful cruise. It is also the most time Shelly and I have been able to take Avatar out. We ended up going to some places that neither of us had previously gone to or introduced each other to. 
It ended up being a great 10 days and solidified things for moving ahead to make a major cruise next year. Some of the places and things we did in the short time out a lot of cruisers never stop to do or explore. We snorkeled spots neither of us previously had. We anchored in places normally people did not go to with the perfect weather we had.
    One of the major things to test and check out was the engine. We tried to sail as much as possible. Using the early morning breeze we would use 2 knots as a threshold to start the motor so we could make it to a new anchorage. Between other testing before and this cruise we now have 50 hrs on the new used motor we have installed and are totally thrilled with how it works. We are  learning the new electronics and nav equipment installed plus relearning living on a boat.
    Several of the photos show Sophie. My buddy of around 13 years.She was raised on a boat and took to it gloriously, even though she is getting up there. 91 in dog years. We are all adapting to living aboard after our sabbatical on land. All in all we could not have had a better time or shakedown of it.
      We are back in La Paz after a birthday week with my son for his 40th birthday but that is another story. We are prepping the boat for hurricane season and getting ready for a road trip to see family and friends. Back here in Oct and getting ready to take a sail south to the mainland. More to be revealed later as they say.

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