We
finally pried ourselves out of Anaho Bay and continued to the West
along the North Coast. A lot of Uncharted territory is along this
part of the coast. You would think with today's technology no where
should be uncharted, but I suppose Nuku Hiva is about as remote as it
gets. We however learned about how to make Google satellite photos
into charts. So we had downloaded some photos of this area and
decided to attempt to sail into Hakaehu Bay near the village of Pua.
We
sailed past several bays and headlands along the way and another
steep mountainous ridge is ahead of us.
You
know you are in the tropics when you see Tropic birds flying by.
They have the long skinny white (sometimes red) tail.
This
is seriously rugged coast line!
Finally
we arrive in Hakaehu bay and it is spectacular! Nice anchorage!
We
see a house in there. We were told by some other cruisers that the
people who lived there were very friendly.
We
notice there is no boat to be seen, but there are horses on the
beach! This place is going to be special!!
When
we go ashore we realize the horses are drinking the fresh water from
a river dumping into the bay.
It
is practically a swamp, just behind the beach.
We
see a fresh water eel swimming by a coconut. This made me laugh
because of the legend of the eel in Polynesia. What? You don't know
it? OK quick side trip here: In Ancient days, the Chief's daughter
married a commoner and was kicked out of the clan. It turned out the
commoner was actually an eel. They lived in poverty all their lives.
As the eel was about to die, he told his wife to after he dies, cut
off his head and plant it in the ground. He told her he would come
back as a plant and provide everything she needed. And so grew up a
coconut tree where she planted her husband's head. The tree
provides, wood for building and carving, leaves for roofs, coconuts
are food, but also the husks can be burned to keep away the mosquitos and the shell can be used as a cup or bowl. And when you remove the
husk and look at the nut, it has the face of an eel made by the three
holes. And in order to open the nut you have to determine which two
are the eyes and hit him square on the top of the head with a hard
object and the nut will crack wide open. Then you have juice and
coconut meat to drink and eat. And that is the story of how the
Coconut Tree came to be the Tree of Life.
Avatar
anchored out in the bay from in front of the house.
An
ancient road leads inland, right past the house.
Sherman
is a Very Big Marquesan man, who lives up to his name. (Sherman
Tank).... His wife and daughter were not there because the daughter
was having a baby and had to fly to Papeete, so the mom, Maria, went
with her. Every few days he rides to the next village where there is
a phone and talks to them. She was due any day now. He was a very
gracious host and offered us papaya right from his tree.
He
also gave us a Custard Apple. We had never seen or heard of one
before. But after several days of ripening, we opened it and it was
delicious!
He
had several dogs and one cat who were keeping him company. They were
adorable!
When
I mentioned he rides, it is not a bike, but one of his many horses.
And
we could not believe the horns on this guy!
He
suggested we follow the ancient road and look at the ruins and pick
up our fruit on the way back to the boat......hmm more cows. They
are staring like they have never seen tourists before.
Mike
poses by this absolutely huge tree.
Had
to get back so you could see how huge it is.
The
ruins are everywhere. Big rocks stacked in several ways.
And
smaller rocks to fill in the gaps. But incredibly level on the top.
This
we believe is a ground oven or a ground storage area where food is
wrapped and kept. Or it could be an old well filled in, or just a
fire place. Who knows really.
The
ancient road passed many walled areas.
You
can see one corner here.
I
spotted this spiral petroglyph carved into one of the rocks.
These
trees were very impressive, like ancient spirits guarding the place.
Another
large structure of piled up rocks.
We
found the main “car” road going to the village, but we decided to
headed back to Sherman's house.
No
wonder he has no fishing boat. Why fish when you have all this
livestock around. Cows.....
Pigs
with piglets!
And
this guy was king of the mound.
It
is a more modern looking raised rock foundation of a house or
something, with a handsome horse hanging out where a house may have
been one time.
I
wondered if he had jumped up there, but then I see he just took the
steps!
More
horses and a colt.
Poor
guy looked a little ruff around the edges, but the others were quite
protective of him, so we didn't get too close.
The
ancient road leads us back to Sherman's house and the beach.
With
the low setting sun a big shadow is taking over the valley. What a
lovely place with lovely people!
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