October 28, 2017
Along
with some friends, Chris and Zane from Rosanne, we rented a car to
explore the island. We had hoped to take a tour but the tour was
$100 per person and the car rental was $100 for all four of us. So I
read the tour book and pretend to be the tour guide.
We
started the day very early when the rental company brought the car to
us to the marina at 0630. When we departed Avatar was glowing in
the early morning sun.
Hiva
Oa is the biggest of the Southern Marquesas and has a very tall ancient volcanic ridge as her backbone. Which then makes a big
hook on the SW corner of the island, but Traitor's Bay (also called
Taaoa) is open to the East. As we follow the road East we get a
great view looking back at the bay.
The
trees were tall and large in the forest as we traveled on.
And
the road was about 1.5 lanes of dirt and gravel.
The
greenery of the jungle just takes over everything here.
When
we stopped for a photo op, I saw this beautiful little purple puff
ball flower among the ferns.
The
altitude is getting high at 2917 feet, when we drove over the ridge
near Mount Ootua. At this point we are entering a cloud forest, but
we are still lower than Mount Temetiu, which is 3576 feet in the
distance to the West of us.
We
are so high up now, we can see the whole of Taaoa Bay and the island
of Tahuata in the distance.
Chris
taking a photo of Mt Ootua's peak in the cloud.
Suddenly
we have a breathtaking view of the North side of the island.
This
side of the backbone is full of steep deep valleys.
The
peak still hiding in the clouds.
The
wind obviously blows strong up from the ocean as this tree is
completely wind swept on one side.
Going
down now. Thank God the road is paved for this steep part!
This
spectacular tree was full of huge air plants, all living off of the
incredibly moist air up in these clouds.
The
road turns back to dirt but it is in good shape, still going down!
Another
huge air plant growing on the side of a not so small tree.
Still
going down.....
Road
is getting a bit rougher now and the green is trying to encroach on
the road.
We
stopped for another photo op, where we could see toward the NW bays.
And below we notice a paved or cemented road, much nicer than the one
we were on.
Our
road was down to one lane and starting to look a bit precarious with
the ocean blue horizon stretching out before us.
Finally
below we could see a small village.
And
several bays between the ridges to the East of us. This is the way
we will go.
Looking
toward the backbone of the island again we can see deep into some of
those valleys now.
The
road really does not get much better. Switchback to the left.
Switchback
to the right. And don't miss the turn!! (Did I mention they only
rent 4wd vehicles on this island?)
Lord
I hope no one is coming the other way!
Another
hair pin turn with no other cars in sight.
Down
at the village and water's edge we find a superman phone booth
with a fisherman's traditional outrigger canoe pulled up from the
beach.
At
least the road is flat now!! And lined with coconut palms.
As
we drive up the next ridge we can see the road we had come down on
the other side of the small bay.
At
the top of this ridge we find a hole herd of goats just hanging out,
enjoying the view.
And
OMG what a view it is! Notice the white caps from the wind blowing
into the bay? Not such a good place to anchor with the boat! Glad
we rented the car.
This
NE corner of the island has some pointy peaks!
The
trees almost look like a kid has painted them there.
Good
photo op! Thanks for taking the photo Chris!
This
boulder looked like it was teetering on the peak and could roll down
the cliff at any moment.
Another
spectacular small bay and coconut plantation. Notice the brown water
from the stream as it dumps into the turquoise water. It must be
raining up there somewhere, or fed by a natural spring?
We
see many ridges to the East of us. Wonder how many we will have to
drive over to get to our destination?
This
tree's leaves had some wart looking things on them?!?
But
another tree had amazing brilliant orange flowers.
This
plant's leaves are a deep purple, outlined with a florescent green.
Not
sure if this is the same type of plant or not, but the leaves seem
more red than purple and the green less obtrusive, but still lovely.
We
finally arrive at the village of Puamau. Here is what we have been
waiting to see, the Iipona Archaeological site, which was restored in
1991. There are several large tiki's as well as ceremonial platforms
and huge ancient trees.
This
is the reclining tiki, some call it the frog tiki because of the way
it is crouched down in position.
Many
of the tiki's show quite bad erosion, which is why they built roof
structures over them.
But
this is the main attraction: Takaii, the largest ancient tiki,
standing 8 feet tall. He is thought to have been carved in the 18th century after a big battle between several clans who came together for revenge against another clan who had killed a beloved Chief, Hanapaaoa.
This
tiki is believed to be Takaii's wife, but she shows much more
erosion.
Takaii
with Zane and Chris.
I
seem to disappear in the trunk of this huge tree next to Toea peak, a
volcanic cliff which dominates the West side of the area. It is a
giant rock which seems to emit some strong energy (Mana).
Looking
back at the area with our little car in the back ground.
As
I wondered around the perimeter I saw several faces in the old trees.
This one was winking at me.
And
this guy was snoozing but had really big eyebrows.
This
archaeology site is rally well maintained and protected.
Takaii
and the headless tiki.
A
wood carved post for one of the roof structures.
This
really shows the Toea peak and you can see how it dominates the site.
In
case you did not notice, Mike by the reclining tiki in the previous
photo.
Wonder
if this is the head that came off the headless tiki or if it just
represents some one who lost their head?
The
site has many platforms made by layering rocks.
Another
angle of Toea peak.
This
plant has some spiky balls which when they were dried (like the brown
ones in the back ground) they hurt to step on!!
To
be continued...........
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