Since
we were still mourning for the loss of our dear Sophita, we were told
of a play that takes place on a Marae (sacred site) that was part of
the Heiva celebration. The play was called Taupapa's Dream. As we
were in need a a little spiritual uplifting, we decided to go see it.
To
get there we decided to hitch hike. This is one of the best ways to
get around and to meet locals. They love giving rides and hearing
about where we are from and our sailing adventures. So once we put
out our thumbs, it did not take long for a fellow to stop. Michael
was a nice young man in his late 20s or early 30s. He was well
educated and spoke English a little bit. His main business was
raising a particular kind of fish and sea slugs, for export to SE
Asia. “Yuck, they eat sea slugs?!?”, I asked.
'Yes
and they pay dearly for them”, he said with a grin. He has fish
pens where he raises them out in the Tuamotu and ships them by plane
to Asia. But today, he was on his way to referee an American
Football game. We were quite surprised to learn that American
Football is quite popular here, and is seen as a way to get off the
island to go to University or play professionally. He was so nice,
he drove us all the way up to the Marae and dropped us off right at
the entrance to the show.
We
got there a bit early, not knowing how far it was from the marina, or
how long it would take to hitch a ride. So while we waited for the
show to start, we explored the Marae. There are two replicas of the
Tikis found in the Austral Islands set up near the entrance. The
originals of these are in the Paul Gauguin Museum, which is closed
now. Kind of a bummer. So we at least got to see the replicas up
close. There are many areas of stones placed to make a flat space.
At the far end where the bleachers were set up, was the big Marae
Arahurahu where the play would be held.
As
the worker bees showed up, I was admiring the dresses they wore. The
three young girls adorned in lovely traditional Tahitian dresses,
were the ticket takers. There were several ladies dressed also
traditionally who showed you to your seats. I also love their flower
crown arrangements which are worn only on special occations.
On
the far side of the Marae were several types of plants growing up the
hill side. These are sacred plants that are used as part of their
costumes and in certain ceremonies. The biggest, Marae Arahurahu,
had a pyramid like tower at one end. We saw a drawing of Marae
Arahurahu from when Capt. Cook was here and I think the original was
even taller. The stoned area was raised up and had a corner stone to
signify the space. There are also several wooden “stick”
structures with designs carved and painted on them. Still not really
sure of their purpose or meaning, but they appear to be like Totem
Poles from the NW indian tribes, but these have sea creatures and
other local wildlife on them.
Taupapa's
Dream was a beautiful story of a king who was on his death bed and is
remembering his wonderful life. The musicians and singers were all
in their own costumes. The king was wearing a big head dress and
traditional feathered tapa cloth covering. The main part of his
dream was remembering his wedding and his lovely wife. There were
the parents of the girl who came to the wedding. There were the
ghosts who were with him praying for his soul as it crossed over.
All of the ghosts had red faces, so you knew they were not of this
world. The young man and girl who played him at his wedding were
both, drop dead gorgeous specimens of the human race. Then all the
girls showed up and all the guys showed up and the ceremony was
beautiful. At the end of his dream, the big double hulled sailing
canoes came and picked him up and sailed him away to the other side.
When the dream was over and the king was dead, the ghosts carried him
to the pyramid and placed his body on their offerings.
And
of course after the show, all of the actors were available for photos
with the crowd. My friend Tehani, who owns Tahiti Crew and helped us
with our French paperwork, was in the show. She is the tall
beautiful one next to me. And just to let you know how sweet the
Tahitian people are, when the battery in my camera died and I had not
gotten a photo with the king and ghosts, a girl offered to take my
photo and email it to me. And she did! The costumes were very
authentic and all of the tattoos were real! What a great evening!
Plus, we got to see a little bit of what a Tahitian wedding ceremony
will be like.
Our
main focus now was to work on the wedding. We had to keep thinking
about that, so not to be depressed, which is really pretty hard to do
here in Paradise! Tehani's aunt, Corrine drove us to the South end
of the island to Tahiti Iti where we looked at a possible location to
have the wedding. It was a lovely place, which is a private home and
bed and breakfast type location. They can sleep up to 12 people in
several different cabins around the property. There is a separate
kitchen and eating area as well. It is out on a point and they have a
mooring where a friend keeps his catamaran. They have a great view
of Tahiti Nui and the South Pacific Ocean.
After
lunch, Corrine drove us up the hill for a spectacular view of the
isthamas of Tahiti, where you can see where the two pieces of island
come together. We also had a great view of the pass thru the reef
where we would come in with the boat, if we go there.
The
property was a lovely place, but there really is not a lot to do
there and it is kind of way out in the country from Papeete. We
eventually decided to have the wedding in Moorea.
Tiki from Rivavae
Shelly with Tiki
entrance of Marae Arahurahu
Miguel waiting for them to let us in
The girls who were the ticket collectors
A lady in traditional dress
Sacred plants growing on hill side
Marae Arahurahu
corner stone
Totem sticks
Singers and Musicians for show
King Taupapa
His parents in his dream
The ghost spirits
The ghost spirits calling the king's memory of his wedding
The men arrive
The king as a young man in his dream
the women dancers
The queen at her wedding in the dream
The actors after the show
My friend Tehani just behind me
Me posing with the actors
The bed and breakfast location
the 5 person building sleeping
the yard
the view
the grounds
the kitchen building
the view of Tahiti Nui west side
the isthamas between Tahiti Nui and Iti
The East side
the point in the middle is the B&B location
view of West side
the pass thru the reef to get to the B&B
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