July
17, 2016
Today
we went to the Heiva Tu' Aro Ma'ohi, the Splendeur des sports
ancestraux. That means we got to see all those cool ancestral sports
we learned at the Rendezvous done by real locals competing for
bragging rights among each other. It was held at the Museum of
Tahiti Islands right on the waterfront in the town of Punaauia, near
the marina where we were anchored.
We
decided to tour the museum while there, which was quite interesting.
Just out side the door is Capt. Cooks lost anchor. There is a
cardboard cut out of the same guy we saw in Nuku Hiva with all the
tattoos. The Chief's feather costume and headdress are well
preserved, along with a real dug out canoe. We did not see anyone
using them, but apparently stilts were used for fun as well. They
had many uses for the carved stones.
Outside
in the gardens is where all the festivities were being held. We got
there early and enjoyed the Tiki gardens decorated with sailing
outrigger canoes. One was a hand made plywood boat and the other a
modified hobie cat type hull.
We
heard the drumming and we knew the dancers had started. In the first
group, the guy acting as chief had a huge amount of hair! And both
the drums and the drummers were quite large. After the dance they
all posed with the crowd, so we could see their costumes close up.
The
second group's chief had a huge head full of coconut tree bark
peelings and was quite in character. The dancers had spears to use
for props in the dance.
The
third group was dressed in regalia costumes. Very fancy headdresses
and white or red grass skirts. While the girls could really shake
their hips (note the flying grass skirts!), the guys wiggled their
knees back and forth making a slapping sound with their thighs as
they hit together. Their drum team was also dressed in pareo's and
had colorful drums. And if you think it was not hot in those
costumes, check out the sweat running down the girl's skin in the
after show photo.
Now
it was time for the games to begin. First we had woman's javelin
throwing. There was not a huge turn out, but the girl in the blue
dress won. Notice she has a different form than the others. They
trow the javelin and try to make it stick into the coconut husk atop
a long pole. There were many that missed and landed in the ground
area. Glad it was cordoned off! In the men's competition there were
a lot more stuck in the coconut. Each one has their own color
corrdination, so when the drop the pole they can know exactly who's
javelin stuck. One thing we talked about, was back in the 1800's we
can not imagine what it would be like to arrive in your boat and have
a bunch of those things flying at you!! Not so inviting as today!
The
crowd was getting thicker as the stone lifting competition began.
The guys in the red and black floral shirts were the judges. You
would not want to mess with the guy in charge, as he had the biggest
tusks on his necklaces!! There were three different weight classes
of stones, heavy, super heavy and extra heavy. In each group the
guys lifting the stones got larger and larger too! It was a timed
event. There are three guys with stop watches who time how long it
takes from when the stone leaves the ground, to when they hold it on
their shoulder with one hand off, to show control. They take an
average of their time and each guy gets two tries to lift the stone.
The fastest guy wins. And let me just say these guys were buff
dudes!! We also found out that these stones are stored at the
cultural department and are hidden away until next year. So if you
want to practice during the year, you have to find your own stone.
Next
competition was the copra opening. We call them coconuts, but here
copra is a huge industry all over the islands, where the locals dry
the coconuts and the government sells them for oil to a number of
different industries, but especially cosmetics. Each man was given a
pile of coconuts (20 or so). First he has to hack them open (they
all bring their own ax or hatchet). Next he has to break them the
rest of the way open by hand, then cut the coconut out of the shell.
This was also a timed event. It was amazing how many competitors
there were and only one minor accident where a guy's finger got a
little too close to the swinging blade. There were emergency guys at
all the events and they were right on it, but some of his coconuts
were red (ew)!
The
last event was the one I had really wanted to see, coconut tree
climbing. There was a red tie placed up a tree. Each man had to
shimmy up the tree and go above the red tie and back down again.
Also timed for who was fastest. Most of the guys used a piece of
tree bark peel wrapped around their feet to make it up there and used
it to slide back down. The guy with the long hair ran and jumped up
the tree with nothing on his feet, zipped to the top and back down
again. I thought he had the best tie of his pareo too (not to
mention a great butt ;-). However, he only got second place. The
stud muffin in the red pareo turned out to be the fastest, but with
abs like that, no wonder!!
Me,
Miguel, Jasna and Rick had a fantastic day enjoying this incredible
event.
Captain Cook's anchor in front of the museum
tattooed Marquesan man
a chief's feather formal wear
dug out canoe
stilts
small carved stones
plywood sailboat with outrigger
Tiki garden
woman tiki carrying children
Miguel with Warrior Tiki
Shelly with the big Tiki
converted hobie cat to outrigger sailing boat
the dance shows were about to begin
dude with massive hair!!
big boy drummer (note stools to stand on to reach)
First dance group
posing for photos with audience
great costumes!!
Second dance troup
wild hat on dance chief
dancers using their spears
acting like fierce warrors
Ladies in the third dance troup with their chief in front
both the men and women dancing together
fancy costumes
lovely ladies in their costumes
the men and their drummers
those girls can shake their hips!! Look at the flow of the grass skirts!
the men shake their knees together
the drummers
cool drummer dude and his painted drum
if you think it was not hot look at the sweat pouring down these girls chests!!
The little gal in the blue dress nailed the coconut more than anyone else and won the contest
the ladies coconut with javelins
can you see all the javelins that missed and hit the ground?
The men's javelin contest
now that is a lot of direct hits on the coconut!!
the judges pull down the coconut to count who got points
The setting by the Museum was lovely
Head judge for stone lifting. Don't mess with this dude!
Stone lifters get their instructions
These guys are buff!!
move the stone into position
then just lift it to your shoulder
look ma only one hand
the judges confer with their stop watches
next group of guys with a heavier stone
lift with your back!!
The other guy in the red pereo is there to make sure no one gets hurt (like a stone falling on them)
The winners
The guys in the extra super heavy stone lift competition
Copra contest
wack the coconut with your hatchet
break open the coconut
wack another one look at the juice fly!
each man had his own judge
peel out the meat onto the canvas bag
tree climbing competiton
He made it to the top
This guy ran and jumped up the tree and used only his feet
above the red marker
he makes it look easy coming down
great hair dude!
love how he ties up his pereo too (nice butt!!)
This guy has the best abs of anyone I have seen in French Polynesia!! The winner!
Miguel, Jasna and Rickster
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