Sail to Hiva Oa

Our friend Steven was loading his copra bags into a friend's waiting boat. He had made 10 bags of the shelled coconuts and needed to get them ready to sell to the trade ship. This is his main form of income when he needs money to buy something. It was something to watch as his friend backed the boat close to the beach in the swell and he jumped on with a 44 pound bag on his shoulders. Obviously he is in good shape!

We too wanted to move on to get some fresh supplies in the main village of Atona on the big island of Hiva Oa. It is 2.5 miles across the Channel Bordelais from Tahuata. As we sailed past the North end of Tahuata we see this huge sand dune in the rocks shining in the sun with the clouds behind.

The island of Hiva Oa is 23 miles long East to West. A large hook in the land on the SW side forms Traitor's Bay, which is just behind this next point.

As we get closer to the point, the land looks like molten lava angled towards the sea.

It is interesting how the plant life is all on top of the ridge and in the deep crevasse of the valleys heading toward the sea.

Rounding the point we see the steep cliff side of Mount Tevaitiu (3901 feet) which forms the back side of a volcanic cauldron.

On the way over, Mike works on splicing a loop in the end of our stern anchor-road, because this will be our first time needing to use both bow and stern anchors to keep from swinging in the tight city anchorage.

Motu Anaka is an island in front the Bay of Atuona, with Mount Tevaitiu still hidden in the clouds behind.

The Bay of Atuona has a lovely black sand beach with the volcanic cauldron behind the village. This bay is wide open to the large Eastern oceanic swell, so all boats anchor in the small bay of Tahauku around the next point to the East.

Inside Tahauku they have built a large breakwater and are currently extending it with that big crane. Those boats are the ferry boats that take people to villages on Tahuata.

We were lucky because there were not many other boats in the anchorage.

We checked out the boat yard where many boats are stored.

This red tri-maran looks like it is flying! Bet it is fast on the water!

From the hill above the boat yard we get a nice view of Motu Anaka.

Beyond the point is the village of Atuona, with the cauldron of a volcano behind.

And a fisherman his heading in to the harbor.

The internet cafe with the best view ever!

Now glowing in the setting sun reflecting on the cloud.

Mount Tevaitiu looks pretty impressive as it comes out of the mist.

The next morning our old friend the Aranui 5 comes steaming into the harbor. We have seen this supply/cruise ship at many of the Marquesas islands now.

He drops anchor and then uses his barge as a bow thruster to get to the dock.

Looks like his stern just barely passes the end of the breakwater.

Sailboat Rosanne is just barely out of the way of his bow!

A frigit bird watches to see some fish have been stirred to the surface with all this activity.

From the shore she looks even bigger!

Empty trucks await their goodies being delivered from Tahiti.

This is a Le Truck. It is taking the cruise passengers on an excursion. Le Truck used to be used as a bus all over the Polynesian islands. Now just used for tours.

Outside the breakwater a large 80 foot catamaran is anchored and a guy is kite surfing on a hydrofoil. He was fun to watch!

Finally Mount Tevaitiu is finally clear of clouds and we can see the top.

The clouds have really cleared so we can see the whole ridge behind the village.

It is such a clear day we can see the uninhabited island of Motane. We were told that sometimes men get hunting permits to go over and kill goats when there are special occasions and need more food for the barbecue.

Walking back to the boat, we get a good view of the stern of the Aranui 5, which is the cruise ship part of the supply boat.

It is always interesting watching them load and unload boats and supplies.

Before the sun set, they were picking up their anchor and heading out, using their barge again to control the bow.

A local va'a paddler goes between us and the ship. He is not afraid!

They had asked Roseanna to move as it was pretty close when they arrived, but now they are heading back to their anchor spot.

Finally the anchor is up!

Then they pick up their bow thruster and set her on the deck! Off to the next island!

Hanamoenoa Bay and Snorkel

On October 16 we moved further down Tahuata to Hanamoenoa Bay. This is said to be one of the most beautiful anchorages in all of French Polyneasia. With that white sand beach, I think we agree!

Someone has a house in those palm trees.

The beach is wide when the tide is out. That is Stephen down there, coming to meet us.  He inherited a large section of the land here from his grandfather.  He is the only one that lives here full time.  He asked us not to take his photo, but I had already taken this one and he is so small you can't really see him.  He lives off the land and sea.  Quite an interesting and deep person.  He spoke excellent English and we had many great conversations.

Where the beach ends and turns rocky, the waves crash.

Stephen found 2 baby piglets which he was trying to save, because their mom was gone. They are hungry little babies.

Avatar is the only boat in the anchorage.

As the sun is heading west, Avatar is glistening in the sparkling water.

There must be a lot of life in this bay, because I kept getting little bitty crabs crawling up into my sink.

This guy is heading for my shell collection after struggling to get up the side of the sink.

Then I went to sit on the head (toilet for you land lubbers) and I see something red scurrying about! No way am I sitting down until I get this guy to go away! Creepy! Yikes!!

So we figured we should get in the water and see what other critters are down there. This is the rocky point on the South side of the bay.

But we decided to snorkel the North side by this blow hole.

Hanamoenoa bay beach from the dingy tour.

In the water we can see the waves making white water on the top of the rocks.

The rocks drop away quickly.

This stripped fish was cruising the sandy part.

As we swim closer to the point the rocks fall away even more.

But at the point, these rocks protrude underwater beyond it. (why you never pass close to a point with the big boat!)

On the left are some corals that look like mini discs as another stripped fish swims by.

Mike dives down to take a closer look.

Back at the surface 3 large predator fish are on the hunt.

Fish hide under any rocks they can find, so not to be eaten by larger ones.

At the tip of the point we saw these other flying saucer corals, but these were about 3 feet across!

Then out of the deep comes what we have been hoping to see, a ray.

Mike dives down to see him better.

But he is cruising down at the deeper rocks. He is not the type we had hoped to see. He is an Eagle ray and this place is known for having Manta Rays, but no luck with them.

This was the stranges piece of plankton or what ever it is. The Go Pro camera has no zoom, so he is not in very good focus. It is almost like a jelly fish but he has arms like a squid and is only about as big as my thumb nail!!

The rays of the sun show me this hole in the rocks.

So I dive down for a different view.

From here it looks like a rock bridge.

Looking down into the deep.

A school of fish swim on the surface by the breaking waves.

This school of little blue fish were even smaller that the other ones.

Looking back at the drop off as a wave hits the rocks.

Mike is still looking for the elusive lobster, none seen yet.

A rock overhang.

Where is that lobster anyway?!?

This was a cool purple fish on the left side which I never did find in the book to identify. But I loved his colors!

Looking out over the shallow area of thin flat corals.

These fish swam out from under the rock to show themselves to me.

One of the few starfish we have seen, but looks more like an oversized green blob.

Don't touch this sea urchin with his sharp spikes, growing near some orange and green blobs. When the sun is out, the colors really show up.

We spent a week in this bay and it seemed the sun loved to shine on the white sand and palm trees.

Another perfect sunset.

Later in the week the clouds moved in, but still the sun shines on the palms on the beach.

The sun was turning the sea and clouds pink and orange as it poked through a hole in the clouds before setting this night.  Hanamoenoa bay is a very special place!